After I scanned in all the pages the next step was to put all the layers for each page into one photoshop document, making sure that it all lined up how it was supposed to. The layers were scanned in greyscale as the risograph will work from these tones and adjust the opacity of the risograph ink to match them. Additionally, I made sure again that, after lining up the layers correctly, I resized the image to exactly 148 x 210 mm, a5 size. Again this was repetitive work that took me a couple hours to do for each page, yet I didn't notice as I was doing it how much time was passing. I have learnt about myself that I enjoy repetitive work, doing the same thing over again to each file also made it easier to remember what I had to do each time. Doing each step to every page like this is definitely the best way to do it as you're less likely to make simple mistakes.
The next step in the process was to, with those same photoshop files, insert each layer into a spot channel corresponding to the colour it will be printed as by the Risograph. These colours are Pantone black U, Pantone 806 U (Fluoro Pink) and Pantone 3005 U (Blue). As I understand it, as someone who has almost no computer knowledge, the spot channels will allow Jim to separate the final InDesign document via the spot channels so we have 3 different documents corresponding to each colour that the risograph will print. On my first attempt, I accidentally made all the layers just channels instead of spot channels which lead to us not being able to save the files as eps files, which we needed to be inserted into InDesign. Jim kindly ended up fixing my mistake and we can now move on to the next step.
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| Resize the page into a5 after lining up the layers. |
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| Range of the colours the risograph can print and their names. |
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| Still trying to be efficient and naming the files in ways that make sense. |
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| Preview of what the final page may look like thanks to the spot channels. |
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